Big Bend National Park - Outer Mountain Loop (Pic heavy!)

Finally made it!

Big Bend – Outer Mountain Loop

Texas is home to 2 National Parks. Big Bend is one of them, and “Big” is an understatement. Unfortunately this beautiful slice of heaven is very isolated. Lying 4.5 hours from El Paso and 6 hours from San Antonio, it makes Big Bend challenging to come by… but worth every second. Remember how Big Bend is huge, it is larger than the entire state of Rhode Island and once you enter the park, it is still another 30 or so miles until the Visitor Center. If you would like to learn more about Big Bend, visit the National Park’s web page (http://www.nps.gov/bibe/index.htm).  Below will be a recap of my adventure to Big Bend with 3 other buddies. Our endurance/health levels varied, but generally our camping was minimal.

Here is what I packed for the trip 

OML without the South Rim Detour

Trip Recap:

May 22, 2014

Leave San Antonio around 10 pm in hopes of making it to the park by sunrise. Aside from almost running out of gas, we just kept each other awake on the drive. We made a stop in Fort Stockton to grab a bite to eat figuring there would be nothing else open along the way. I got a foot long subway to eat once we got closer to the park.

Heading down to cache ou

May 23, 2014

We got to the Park around 7 am as the sun was rising. During our drive in we started to feel how massive and majestic this area was. During the night ride we were oblivious to the giant rock formations jetting out of the ground. The sun’s reflection was giving off a vibrant red glow that was photographic view, even from a distance. We already knew that hiking the Outer Mountain Loop was impossible without caching water. We headed to the Homer Wilson Blue Creek cache point. All four of us placed 1 gallon each. CACHE 2 GALLONS. I cannot stress this enough. It is no difference hauling 2 gallons from your car on the side of the road, down 400m to the cache box. We saw other jugs in the box dated in April, some with “Emergency water”. We heard doing the OML was suicidal in the summer months, but we were experiencing a rather cool May. We returned back to Chisos Basin Park Center (can leave car here) to buy our park pass ($20/vehicle) and get our backpacking permit ($10). The park ranger issues these and was strongly trying to discourage our plans. In the end, our research and knowledge from it convinced him to give us a shot. He did mention that OML has a 10% success rate… scare tactic or truth?

Getting ready to take off!

The water alone I was carrying weighed almost 20 pounds. After adding in everything else, I was somewhere between 25 & 30. My preparation for this trip? Walking around Freer, TX with 35 pounds in my bag for 2 hours one day and 4 hours another. We all chugged about half a gallon of water and began our adventure at 10 am. We began with the Pinnacles Trail. This was an immediate uphill hike. We got into the grove by allowing each person to lead the group for 15 mins, and then drop to the end and continue until one cycle. We would then stop and rest for 15 mins then continue. This gave each person the chance to go at

Maps help!

their own pace and include plenty of rest. We continued this method for 3.5 miles where we came across Emory Peak Trail. I hear great things about this view, but we heard better things about South Rim, so we trekked on for about 1.3 miles (passing the Colina Trail). We took a breather here. There is a nice dried out creek. We headed to the right towards South Rim, but only for a short, maybe half mile, we were forced to continue right on the West route due to falcon mating season. After a mile we came up on the most breath taking views. We were again restricted by the falcon mating season and forced to turn right. We took lots of photos. One of the guys in our group was deathly afraid of heights, to the point where us being close to the edge made him queasy. We spent a solid 30 mins admiring the great views and taking photos. Our vantage point allowed us to see for miles and

Enjoying South Rim

Group Shot!

consequently, where we would be walking the next day. We headed back to our turn off point (~3 mile side trip in all) and got onto Juniper Canyon Trail. We all thought the steep ascend was bad… the steep descend was possibly worse! We were still covered by trees and the heat wasn’t too back despite temperatures reaching into the upper 80’s. After descending from 7,000’ to 3,000’ we made it to Upper Juniper Springs. Soon after this point is where back packing camping begins. This must occur 50’ off the trail (there are clearly marked spots). We estimated that we were 1.5-2 miles from the Dodson Trail turn off. We set up the tent and got ready for bed as the sun was setting. Due to our lack of sleep we were able to sleep pretty easy despite the thunder clouds rolling in.

Take BREAKS!

Our sleep spot

Total distance covered: 14 miles

Lunch: 1 apple, couple beef jerky pieces, and cliff bar

Snack: 1 orange

Dinner: Tuna package, jerky pieces, twizzlers and washed down with half coconut water

May 24, 2014

Rattlesnakes blend in well... Be careful!

We woke around 6 and began to get ready. We were on our way by 6:45 with the sun barely peaking over the mountains. Within 30 minutes of leaving we became INCHES from a rattlesnake. Just sitting in the middle of the trail was a 4’ rattlesnake. We took no chance and walked way around. Another 30 minutes we were at the cache station for Dodson Trail. We took a look and found some emergency water. We took some and filled our jugs. We did not take full advantage ago, and we wish we would have! Never pass on water!

Day 2!

There was a single rain cloud on the mountain where South Rim view was. It was a great shot, so we took a couple photos before taking off. We had roughly 11 miles til the Homer Wilson Blue Creek Ranch point. This part was very brutal and intense. It involved very rigorous up downs causing us to take multiple breaks. There was no shade from the sun. The immediate contact wore on us greatly. The only positive is your shoulders become use to the weight and the load is lessening with time, but be sure you save water! After the intersection of Smokey Creek Trail, the terrain becomes more tame. The heat however is climbing rapidly. We started a 20 mins on, 5 mins off campaign and that 5 mins had to be spent in whatever form of shade we could find. We knew the cache station was coming up after we ascended and

Cairns will save you!

took a turn and saw we had a big descend. Take this descent lightly, then follow the creek bed and finally the cache station is in view! The heat was making it quite miserable but the scenery is amazing. We sat at the cache station for an hour chugging water and eating what we could. Half our crew decided that was enough and hitched a ride back to the park center. We continued up the creek bed for another 2.5 hours passing the red rocks (looks like something out of Utah!). We made camp and passed out!

The red rocks

Total distance covered: 13 miles

Breakfast: Cliff bar and rest of coconut water

Lunch: 1 apple, couple beef jerky pieces, peanut butter and honey sandwich

Snack: 1 orange

Dinner: Tuna package, jerky pieces, twizzlers

May 25, 2014

We woke up early to beat the heat. We had to use our head lights for the first 30 mins or so but it was worth it. The steep mountains that surrounded us made it feel like we were closer than we really were. We had one last ascend where at the top the sign indicated we were 3.5 miles away from the park center. Hope! This involved a lot of switch backs that were hard on the joints and blisters on top of blisters. We could see a glimpse of the park but it was misleading as the switch backs were killer. We did start seeing people walking towards us wearing fresh clothes and smiles while I am sure we looked like something from the Walking Dead. We finally reached the park center and immediately went to the park store to buy any kind of foods. Burger and ice cream? Sounds great! Finished up with about 36 miles in all 

FINISHED!

Summer Camping

The following was used for a hiking trip to Big Bend in May 2014. The trip was 2 nights and ending noon on 3^rd day. We did not use a tent, but bring one if you chose!

Approaching Big Bend!

Packed (did not use a “backpacking/camping” bag):

3 dry fit shirts (hiking)

1 long sleeve shirt (night)

1 pair of athletic shorts

1 pair of Columbia zip away pants

3 pairs of socks

3 pairs of undies

Sweat rag (came in handy to wipe sweat and protect my face from the sun hanging it)

Booney hat

Thin cotton sleeping bag (more like a giant pillow case, but comes in handy!)

Water proof hiking boots (ran across zero water but they worked well in Peru)

Toiletry items

Head light for night and sunglasses for day

Bug spray

Light weight waterproof jacket (optional)

Dry fit shirt, comfortable shorts, hat and sunglasses

WATER! WATER! WATER!

Food:

Zip lock bag of favorite trail mix

3 cliff bars

2 peanut butter & honey sandwiches

2 packets of tuna (not cans)

Package of beef jerky

3 apples & 2 oranges

Package of Twizzlers

2x 1 gallon of water

1 litre of Coconut water

Hotels Vs. Hostels

We have stayed in both youth hostels and hotels. Hollywood has caused people to get a bad taste in their mouth when they hear the word "hostel," but they are not as dangerous and creepy as the movies make them seem. I will be giving my point of view about both options.

Notice the lockers here, Big plus!

8 person room in Hostel  Alessandro in Rome (2 of 2)

Youth Hostels are definitely for the social traveler. I love meeting everyone in my room, and those roomies become instant mates to go experience nightlife. Many hostels give options for how many roommates you would like to have. Rooms with 4, 6, 8, 12, your choice. The more the merrier in my opinion!

Pizza Dinner with Hostel in Florence

For a traveler on a budget, the more roommates you have, the cheaper the bed. There will be all female/male rooms if that appeals to you more. Most of the time you will be given a locker to put your backpack in (yet another reason to ditch the massive bag and travel with only a backpack!), a set of bed clothes (sheets/blanket if you don't know what bed clothes are), and a bed. Many youth hostels host nightly events, such as pub crawls or pizza dinners. Several youth hostels have kitchens with large refrigerators to store food, if this is the budget-friendly route you would like to go. Most have free wifi and computers to use if you need one. Many times hostels are situated in the hotspots of big cities at a WAY cheaper price compared to surrounding hotels. Some things to consider: You don't have as much privacy (obviously) in a room with 11 other people, and most of the time you share an all female or male community bathroom/showers. If you are a light sleeper like me, you will hear your roommates coming in from the bar at 4 am or leaving to catch a train at 5 am. You hear the snoring, farting, and shifting of the others. All roommates I have encountered have been as courteous as possible about their noise level.  Things to know before you go: It is normal for the hostel to require your passport to make a copy (I silently freaked out in my head the first time this happened). Bring a lock to put on your locker, if you forgot yours, most places sell some. Pack a small hand towel for baths, and on that subject. Don't expect long, hot showers,  plugs with converters, or lots of mirrors to get ready. Be respectful of others. I sleep with my purse under my pillow or against my body (I'm a light sleeper so I could hear a person before s/he could touch my stuff).  RESEARCH the hostel. Look on tripadvisor or a similar website to read the reviews. If the website has many typos, poor sentence grammar, crappy pictures, don't choose that place!!!!! Many of the chain youth hostels are very reliable. I have never felt unsafe or scared in a youth hostel. Don't put yourself in a situation to be a victim and you won't regret choosing a hostel!

Not all are pretty - Hostel my brother and I got in Amsterdam

Hotel in Cinque Terre - La Spiaggia

Hotels are a great escape for those travelers who want privacy. Once again, RESEARCH the hotel before you book it. Hotels are more expensive than hostels. Many (especially in SE Asia) boast breakfast buffets, have comfortable beds, wifi, your own shower, mirror, etc. Some may even have their own exercise room and hotel pool which can all be enjoyable! If you land a crappy hotel, you didn't do your research. With the World Wide Web making everything available at your fingertips, there is no excuse to stay in a bad hotel. Many hotels are in strange neighborhoods, far away from any attractions, so be aware of the surroundings. If we book a hotel outside the city, it will be near a train station or metro station for easy access. Use discount websites like expedia or the Aussie version wotif.

Relaxing by the pool in Bangkok!

Some things to consider: If you are the type of traveler who likes to sleep late, lounge around the hotel, and rest, then hotels are for you! If not….I wouldn't waste my money if all you will be doing is sleeping for 5 hours (who sleeps when there is so much to see and do!) and taking a quick shower. Your idea of breakfast may differ from the hotel's idea of breakfast. Never use the comforter….EVER…in ANY country. Things to know before you go: The concierge will ask for your passport to make copies. Lock bags before leaving hotel. Be courteous and it will be returned. Speak up! If the room isn't clean…say something!

Puripunn Baby Grand Boutique Hotel Bath

Angkor Pearl Hotel making our Honeymoon special!

How to Avoid Getting Staph on a Train in Thailand

Well, don't wear short shorts for starters. If you've had Staph once (high school for me), you avoid any situation of a possible reoccurrence at all costs.

We entered a sleepy train station early one morning in Bangkok, Thailand to catch a train to the Thai/Cambodian border. Delicious smells of bread and meat wafted from the food carts preparing for another work day, making my stomach growl. The forms of homeless beggars lined the outside walls of the station.

We boarded our train, finding a whole booth unoccupied! The car was stuffy, so the windows went up immediately to allow a cool breeze to pass through. Our journey began. We had been warned about the trains in Thailand. They were rarely on time and very slow.

Chillin with our nice AC

It was a weekday, with workforce traffic in full swing. We passed many car parks packed with vehicles (how did these people get their cars out?!) and concrete buildings. At each stop, swarms of people boarded the train. The body heat and sun rising caused  me to break a sweat (ok I'll admit the back of my legs sweat the most…). Trevor was large enough to fill his own bench, but I had a woman plop down next to me, arms full of various items. I didn't mind much until (Disclaimer: I'm a bit of a germaphobe) she took her sandals off and put her feet on the bench in front of her. Ack!!!

Ok, I must give the back story of why this bothered me so much. One year in high school a girl had a severe staph infection on her foot (rumors circulated it possibly needed to be amputated…high schoolers are mean). She had a P.E. class before mine and I assume she put her foot up on the seat I proceeded to sit down on, because next thing I know, I got staph!

Back to Thailand. I chose to wear short shorts for this train ride (stupid). The backs of my legs were sweating, the lady put her feet on the seat, and the realization soon hit (as I looked around) that ALL of the seated train riders did this! I immediately thought of my staph incident and scooted to the edge of the bench so none of my skin touched (as my mom reads this, I'm sure she's saying, "Typical Becky.") I stared out the window for a distraction.

My gaze came upon a woman cooking meat on a cart in the middle of a street intersection. Her voice carried to the train, calling possible patrons. The smell of the meat made my stomach turn. The setting was quite dismal. The car parks and concrete buildings were replaced by tin shacks parted by tarps, piles of trash, and half-naked children running around. We were now passing through the slums of Bangkok.

I witnessed poverty in Peru, but not to this extent. My eyes were opened to the meaning of slums. As the train was passing (at a very slow pace at this point), people were running and jumping on the train, jumping off when they reached their destination. Ladies entered the train carrying baskets of meat and exotic fruit. Trevor loves street food and wanted to try the meat, but I persuaded him to try the fruit instead (we were passing through slums!). The colorful and foreign fruit dazzled us; white-fleshed fruit with black specks for seeds. Trevor enjoyed the sweet flavor.

One particular image was seared into my mind. As we were passing through the slums, an old man was sitting atop a tin-roof shack raising his hand, as if calling to the train. He had naught but some kind of undergarments. What really moved me was the emaciated, skeletal form of his body. I had only seen Holocaust pictures of this sort, never in real life. I gasped in shock. He made me reflect on the way we live our lives, everything we have, and I felt awful! Here we were, sitting on a train with our digital cameras and cell phones, eating breads and fruits.

Studies show that the poorest American is still wealthier than a large percentage of the world's population. Realizing this, our "first world" complaints seem petty compared to those of true poverty. I am sitting on a bench worried about getting staph on my butt, as I pass by people who are dying from horrible diseases and hunger.

Lesson 1: Don't wear short shorts on trains.
Lesson 2: Stop complaining about "first world" problems, such as your Wifi being too slow, or not being able to upgrade to the newest cell phone available
Lesson 3: Patience. That train ride was 6 hours long!
Lesson 4: If you see a monk, talk to him! Many times they want to practice their English! (I regret not talking to this one we saw on the train).

5 Things You MUST do in Rome

Rome is an ancient city with a rich history. We have all read about the city in our history books, but experiencing this city should be on everyone’s bucket list. Rome is quite massive and can be overwhelming, so if you are crunched for time, make sure you AT LEAST check out these 5 attractions:

Massive!

1.  The Colosseum

Without a doubt, it is the most distinctive landmark in this city, and  has long stood 2,000 years of weathering, changing of empires, and many wars. Although most people remember this site for the gruesome gladiator battles that were held inside, the amphitheater also held plays, even capable of being flooded to display naval battles. I would highly suggest reserving an entrance ticket as the line can wrap around the Colosseum. Follow this link to do so. In the summer, Rome can be steamy, so try to make it something to do first thing in the morning.

For all you AGGIES!!!

Inside

     

    

    

Hanging in St. Peter's Square

    2.The Vatican City

Inside St. Peter's Basilica

This first two seem obvious, but once you are standing in front of St. Peter’s Basilica or under the Sistine Chapel, you will understand. The Vatican is only 110 acres of jam packed religious history. First, embark in the Vatican Museum (Reserve ticket here) where you will realize the power the church has had over the centuries. Finish up with the Sistine Chapel, but be careful of photography! Walk across St. Peter’s Square to the Basilica. In here, embrace the massive dome structure and give St. Peter’s foot a rub. *There is no passport control for entering the Vatican City*

         

Can I have all, please?

 3. Gelato

Taking a Gelato break

Although originated in Sicily, Rome has mastered the dish. Gelato is a soft served ice cream containing cream, sugars, and fresh fruit. I know here in Texas nothing beats Blue Bell, but gelato will surely make you question that statement. If you are worried about those calories, don’t be, Rome makes it easy to walk from attraction to attraction; perfect time to burn it off!

Beer and Pizza... I'm sold!

    4. Pub Crawl

Always fun games to play

I may say every city you should try a pub crawl, but Rome had one of the best pub crawls… so nice, we did it twice! I know some of you older folks are thinking those days are long gone, but it is a different lifestyle over there where it is common for late dinners with a drink or two to finish the night. Pub Crawls are a great way to meet other travelers and experience the city when most tourists are asleep. If Pub Crawls are still out of your comfort zone… at least try a hostel instead of a hotel. Click here for the Pub Crawl we did and the Hostel we stayed at (also hosted a pub crawl).

Entrance to the Pantheon

   5. Pantheon

Enjoying the masterpiece

I may be a little biased on this one, but the Pantheon is an incredible architectural and engineering feat. The dome was constructed over 2,000 years ago and is STILL the world’s largest unreinforced concrete dome. Afraid of wasting time just to see a dome? The Trevi Fountain, Piazza Navarro, Temple of Hadrian, and plenty of churches are all very close. Not to mention the abundance of gelato and pizza stands!

Chambers helped the dome structure

If you want to read more on our trip to Rome, check out the more detailed post here

Ciao Bella, Italia

Cinque Terre

Cinque Terre is a hidden gem that has gained attention since Rick Steves made it public to the world. This may partially be due to the fact it has limited accessibility, therefore corporate infrastructure is non-existent. I would insist taking the train into the area. From the South, La Spezia is your best bet, while from the North I would assume Genoa. The trains stop in each of the 5 towns, but there is a walking trail, Sentiero Azzurro (the blue path), for the more adventurous crowd (give yourself 5 hours).

Map of Lucca

We left for Cinque Terre from Florence in the early morning. I was told by my Uncle to check out the town of Lucca on our way. We decided to make this pit stop and grab some lunch. After 2 hours of stopping every 10 minutes, we finally made it. Lucca was very easy to spot due to the wall that encloses the old city. When fortress walls lose their military importance in Italian cities, they are typically removed. Lucca turned the fortress walls into a pedestrian walkway. The train station is positioned outside Lucca, so it took some walking to get into the city. The Guinigi Tower could be seen coming into the city.

View from top of Guinigi Tower

We decided that would be our target. It is basically in the center of town and has some amazing views… plus this climb was only 200 steps to the top. There is a little garden with some shade trees. We were in no rush. We could see some of the other attractions, such as San Michele Cathedral, San Frediano Basilica, and St. Martin’s Cathedral. We grabbed lunch down in the plaza and headed back to the station. I noticed the lack of vehicles in the city center, I’d imagine not a lot has changed over several decades.

Fortress wall a walking path

View from train looking back on Riomaggiore

Cinque Terre

After changing trains in La Spezia, we were on our way. Once the train goes in the tunnel, prepare yourself, because once the train comes out of the tunnel your breath will be taken away. Cinque Terre is comprised of 5 towns. Starting from the south: Riomaggiore, Manarola, Corniglia, Vernazza, and Monterosso. We heard Monterosso had the best beaches, so we chose that town to find a hostel. Every town is so colorful and vibrant, you can’t go wrong. We found lodging available at the La Spiaggia Hotel. They were very accommodating and if you visit their site, our room is pictured on their home page. We did lie and say it was just Becky and I, but my brother and I look very similar. We had a great view of the Sea and a nice patio to enjoy. It was late afternoon after we checked in. We immediately put on our swim suits and hit the beach. 

View from our hotel

Taylor about to jump!

Unfortunately, the beach was very crowded so we just walked on the docks admiring the sail boats. We noticed on the far side of the beach were some rugged cliffs that looked enticing. My brother and I jumped in to swim over to the cliffs. It was August and the water was freezing! Not only was it cold, the water was very salty (quite shocking!). While we were swimming over there, we noticed some kids jumping from the cliffs. We thought we would give it a shot. They were not too high, maybe 15 feet, but exhilarating. After tiring ourselves out by jumping off the cliffs several times, we headed to the beach. The beach on Monterosso is not sand, but tiny pebbles. These pebbles are not comfortable. After a nice power nap, we enjoyed a nice meal at L’Ancora della Tortuga. I tried a seafood dish, which was obviously saltier than I was used to, but still delicious! On our way home, we ran into our Canadian neighbors from Florence. Small world! We wanted to enjoy the night life, so headed to Bar Centerale for a relaxing night. There are many options to choose from, check out this site for more ideas. My Uncle told me to also try Grappa. Here is the wiki version, but it is basically a grape-based brandy.

Enjoying some grappa!

My brother and I could not stand it! It took us a solid 30 mins to finish a tiny bit. We talked to many people with different backgrounds, some other Americans, a girl from Ecuador, a Norwegian couple, and then we ran into our Canadian friends again at a wine bar. They were enjoying a 27 day honeymoon. I wish America embraced holidays the way the rest of the world does! All work and no play. Most foreigners are so eager to talk to us about politics… which I think is the last thing I want to talk to anyone about.

Colorful Riomaggiore!

Day 2

We woke up to a storm outside and a storm in our heads. The rough start to the day did not get much better anytime soon. While on vacation, it is hard to sit still when there is so much to see. After powering through breakfast, we headed to Riomaggiore to try snorkeling. The bad weather above the water shouldn’t affect what we see below, right? The 3 of us rented 2 kayaks and 3 snorkeling masks and set out. I swam next to the kayaks and saw some very colorful fish, which I was not expecting. I even spotted some sort of devil ray-type fish. It was not even 10 mins before my brother loses his mask and down, down it goes. Me being the engineer I am and not knowing the cost of losing equipment, take my snorkel and wrap it around the oar like a hook. I make some attempts to retrieve it but the pressure is too great. Meanwhile, my brother managed to accomplish more misfortune. He accumulated so much water in his kayak that is started sinking. I helped push him to the nearest solid surface, which happens to be a very jagged rock. The rain picks up, as does more misfortune. Attempting to relieve his kayak of the water, we slip and fall several times over the jagged rocks causing blood to flow. Soon I realize in all the chaos, I lost my snorkeling mask. Becky left us long before it escalated this far. But we look up to see the Sentiero Azzurro unfortunately overlooking the cliffs. By this time, a nice crowd collected watching us fail at a simple task. We bowed our heads in defeat and headed back in, only to find the masks cost us €15 in all for the lost equipment. Of course. Upon arriving back at the hotel, the sun was out.

From the beach looking back to Vernazza

We needed some brightness to our day so we headed to the beach with some pizza and laid out. Around mid-afternoon, Becky and I headed to the next town Vernazza. We did some souvenir shopping and admired the quaint town. While waiting for the train, we grabbed a bottle of wine for €1 and hung out waiting. Back in Monterosso, I wanted kayak redemption! Becky and I rented a 2 person kayak and set off for Vernazza. This is also a time when I had a non-water proof camera. Lesson learned after this trip. I quickly invested in a water proof Nikon CoolPix shortly after. Anyways, Becky and I learned that we do not have the same rhythm, making the rowing quite irritating. We came across more caves and decided to investigate. We found about a 40’ waterfall recessed

in the cliffs. I had to check it out, unlike me, Becky remembered the incident from the morning and passed. I made it past the slippery rocks to the water fall! After checking it out, I headed back to the water and, of course, slipped and fell face first. I braced the impact with my hand, which did not turn out good for my wrist. I instantly developed a huge bump protruding from the side of my wrist. Now I had to kayak back to shore. We had a very chill night eating a nice dinner – I tried the swordfish, which was worth it! Then we brought a bottle back to the hotel and sat on the balcony enjoying each other’s company. Tomorrow was back to Rome.

While in a beach setting such as this, your attire is basically chosen for you… swim suit! I took this opportunity to wash my clothes for another round of use.

Here is Becky Cliff Jumping!