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Tuesday, June 17, 2014

Florence

I cook with wine, sometimes I even add food to it.

Some people do not enjoy travel once the destination is reached. I like to explore as much as possible and if that involves a couple hour train ride, I will use it to catch up on some sleep, reading, or recapping the previous day’s activities. My favorite thing to do is to catch other people in their element!

View from the top of the Duomo


View from our Hostel!
We arrived in Firenze mid-afternoon. We wanted to drop our bags off at the hostel first and then explore the city. The only problem was… when we arrived at BB Maison my brother and I were told we were too big for their beds. We picked this place mostly based on price, as Florence is much smaller than Rome thus allowing easier access. The owner was very laid back and the hostel hosted a pub crawl, so we were hesitant when he said he had another option. We thought for sure we were going to be moved farther away from the Duomo. Reluctant to see what he had in mind, we followed. To our surprise, we were not only set up closer, but he also knocked off a couple Euro a night with larger beds. Not a bad deal! A Canadian couple had the same "misfortune" so they were placed next to us.

Madonna and Child
We headed to San Marco Plaza, a religious plaza, which hosts a church and a convent. The convent housed many of Fran Angelico’s art work. We looked at some shops around the Plaza checking out wine. We were in the famous wine country of Tuscany and were tinkering with the idea of buying some and shipping it back home. We came up on the Bargello Museum, which looked like an old fortress. Later we found out it was in fact a former barracks and prison. This place wasn’t even on radar prior, but I would surely add it if it isn’t on your list. It mostly contains Renaissance era art like Michelangelo’s Madonna and Child (Bacchus, pitti Tondo), Donatello’s David (not to be confused with Michelangelo's David... that is soon!), among others. Bargello also had some artifacts/coins that were interesting. We were a bit exhausted, so we trekked back to the hostel. We could just barely see the Duomo Plaza and my Uncle who studied in Italy told me the best time to climb the Duomo was at dusk. So, we paid our 8 Euro entry and climbed some of the strangest 463 steps I have ever ascended. There were many tight spots and awkward situations with other tourists descending the stairs. The dome resembles the Pantheon with the oculus in the middle and a thinning wall as you get higher. The height of the dome is 115 meters! After 20 mins and sweat now broken, we made it to the top.
Climbing the Duomo!



The views will blow your mind. It is a bit cramped up on top so we waited out the crowd to get some good pictures. It was worth it! We got back to our rooms in time for a later dinner. We saw our Canadian neighbors heading over to the Hostel for a dinner night. We decided to join them (€2.50 for a pasta plate!). We grabbed a bottle of wine on our way and headed over. The small kitchen was filled with people from France, England, and of course Aussies. After dinner, we all headed to the Fish Pub where there was live music. We hung out there for a bit.  On a side note… my brother decided to buy some famous Absinthe. We briefly toasted with it prior to heading out. It is fowl tasting with a liquorice after taste. After dinner, our Canadian neighbors joined us, and walked and talked all the way to the river. While out there, we ran across a livid and drunk Italian. I don’t speak a word of Italian, but he was pissed at the statues by the Uffizi. He kept spitting on them and yelling. This entertained us for quite some time, but we had another long day ahead of us and called it quits.
Hostel friends
Our Canadian neighbors











Day 2 started rather late… but we didn’t miss a beat. First up was our reservation at the Accademia. I had read that in the high season the lines can be ridiculously long. I took a chance and pre-ordered our tickets (Accademia). There is nothing more frustrating than wasting time in line! The Accademia is most famous for Michelangelo’s statue of David. Michelangelo has a few more pieces along with many other Renaissance era works.
 Our opinion was it did not constitute an entire day, but when in Ro— I mean Florence… The statue of David lived up to the hype. The statue is quite large, maybe 15’ or so. This large marble was whittled down in 2 years with precise detail. It is simply amazing to achieve such precision  considering the technology and tools that existed 500 years ago. After the Gallery, we walked through the San Lorenzo Market which resembled a giant flea market. We picked up some souvenirs. Souvenirs can be a tricky obstacle. There are many things to consider. I suggest reading Becky’s comments on souvenir shopping. The Uffizi was up next. I am not against art or literature; I just prefer much more action packed attractions. Becky is the culture connoisseur, so she loved it. The Uffizi was built to provide openness but at the same time not to block viewing space.
Map of the Uffizi
This is very evident in the internal courtyard. My brother and I maybe lasted 30 minutes before losing interest, but we let Becky enjoy it for a couple hours. It was late afternoon by the time we finished. The famous Ponte Vecchio is very close to the Uffizi, so we hiked over there. It was a colorful market with numerous leather shops, jewelry stores, among others. I would say this area is more expensive, but a great place to get ideas on souvenirs! I took a quick power nap while Becky did some wine shopping. I met up with Becky, and she had made friends with an owner of a wine shop. He gave us a decent deal on shipping 6 bottles back home. I kick myself for not writing down who it was. I would just recommend being smart and doing your research if you choose to go this route. Modern technology should allow all sorts of assurance on quality. Of our 6, Becky and I got 4, my brother got 1, and as a thank you gift to our lovely Aunt who makes all our traveling cheap(er), we got her one.
Ponte Vecchio

 I promised Becky a romantic night on the town so we chose this night to do it. My brother ran off to the nearest pub while Becky and I went to a local restaurant of her choice. It is very common for people to be eating dinner after 8 pm which is considered late in the US. After our delicious pizza (which is not like what you find in the States) and local Tuscan wine, we hit the hay. Our goal was to catch an early ride to the coast.


Date night!














Highlights:
Duomo – Climb to the top!
Statue of David
Wine/food
Art/Culture

Do over:
I would spend an extra day and do a wine tour

Souvenir Shopping 101

You can't travel to another country without leaving with a physical memento. The process of picking and bartering for souvenirs can be a learning process and lots of fun! However, you may run into a few problems. Who do you buy souvenirs for? Will you have room in your luggage? How much should you spend? What do you get? Well, I hope to give you some guidance to help alleviate any anxiety.

Shopping in Cusco!

I will first say, have an idea of what you may want in mind. Do some research (so much research, but it's fun research!). Figure out what the city or country is known for. Cambodia is known for its silk farms, Japan for its technology, Peru for alpaca wool, Italy for food and wine, etc.  What are you interested in?

Before my first trip to Europe, someone suggested to purchase the same kind of souvenir every place I went to start a collection. So, I decided to buy spoons and rosaries. However, these became difficult to come by at many tourist attractions. So I nixed that idea. Trevor and I met some awesome, well-traveled Aussies on our Macchu Picchu trip, and they collect magnets (no porcelain ones since they could fall and break) and something to decorate their house. We really liked this idea, so besides a magnet and a decoration, we buy a shot glass, and something the country is known for. For a budget friendly option, get addresses of all friends and family, and write/send them a post card from each city. You will need to find out where you can buy the stamps and post box. Shot glasses can be tricky as they are fragile. Plus some shops just slap on a sticker that after one wash it falls off. I try to hold off as long as possible before buying the shot glass, maybe the morning of departure. I make sure they wrap it in paper and then take a sock and roll it in there. If I have brought an extra pair of shoes,
I will then typically stick it in there or make sure to snuggle it in the top of my bag. We go after some form of art (Aboriginal art from Australia, Woven alpaca tapestry from Peru, street painting of the Eiffel Tower from Paris, etc). Now it hangs in our house for our visitors to see. These items were typically moreMore recently I have ran across flag patches of the host country, such as here. Of course one can order them, but much more fun to purchase them in the country you visit. You will see them scattered on packs at the train/bus station of beginner and experience travelers alike.



Things to avoid:

  • Bulky items. Yes that cuckoo clock made from black forest wood would look great in your home, but is it worth the hassle?
  • Anything that could be mistaken as a weapon. Take into consideration how strict airport security is. I had to plead to TSA to allow me to bring my boomerang with me. If you check your bags in, of course the risk is not there, but we do not fly this way.
  • Food/vegetation. Minus the fact it spoils and could stink up the plane, customs does not allow food or vegetation. Alcohol is allowed on checked in bags.
Everything is negotiable 

Sunday, June 15, 2014

Ode de Toilette

Just for fun, I wrote a silly poem. All world travelers have experienced some confusion about them.


Ode de Toilette
Ou est vous, toilette?
Ou est vous?
I thought this would be simple,
but now what is there to do?

Your many names confuse,
for one simple traveler to use.
The loo, the Water Closet or WC,
the hole in the floor, you see?

My pants are…well I'm vulnerable,
the plastic on the the toilet seat looks reusable.
I'm desperate for some paper,
this rhyming is beginning to taper.

The toilet bowl has no water,
Is that why there was water in a potter?
Do I pull that chain or pump this pedal?
Oh, why did I even meddle?!

Ou est vous, toilette?
Ou est vous?
I thought this would be simple,
but now what is there to do?



Thursday, June 12, 2014

26 Tips You Wish You Knew Before You Left

Reflecting on our many treks around the world, there are some facts we have learned the hard way. Either receiving a restaurant bill way more expensive than intended or receiving dirty looks from locals,   you learn as you go. Well, here are some secrets that may save you from experiencing any small surprises!

Restaurants

  1. If you want service, be proactive! Unlike the waitstaff in America who are very attentive, waiters will not come to you unless beckoned. Many times people sit and drink/chat a while before wanting to eat. Get their attention somehow!
  2. Tips are included in the price of the food. The U.S. is one of the only countries where patrons tip waitstaff. If you would like to tip for excellent service, please do!
  3. In some cafes and restaurants (especially big cities such as Paris), you may pay for where you sit/stand. If you stand and eat at the bar, it is the cheapest. If you sit at a table inside the cafe, you pay a little more. But, of course, the most you will pay is to sit outside at a table, because who doesn't want to "people watch" at a cafe in Paris and Rome?!?!?!
  4. The waiter will ask you if you want "Still of Gas" water? This was first asked of me in London at a cafe, and luckily the native language is English! The waitress explained tap/filtered water or carbonated water.
  5. Don't expect ice in your drink. When you come back to the States, you can have as much as you like!
  6. You may pay for the bread brought out to your table before your meal. Ask or just tell the waiter, "No thank you!"
  7. If you have food allergies, translate the allergens ahead of time to order safely! Check out my post about traveling with food allergies here.
  8. Depending on the culture, many restaurants don't open for "early lunch" or they are closed mid-afternoon before dinner. The normal mealtime hours in America may not be the same as other countries.
Money/Finances
  1. We normally only take enough U.S. Dollars that will last us the first 2 or 3 days of the trip, if that. We exchange at the airport of our destination. We have found the best exchange rates at the airport.
  2. Call your bank BEFORE you leave out of the country, so your card isn't frozen or canceled because of fraud. On the back of the card, there should be a customer service number. You will need to inform the teller the dates of your trip.
  3. ONLY use your ATM card at established banks with ATMs. Don't put yourself in a situation to become a victim.
  4. Regardless if you pull $20 or $200 worth of currency, your bank will charge you the same amount for ATM usage. So pull out a larger amount. 
  5. Only pay in currency/cash. I don't recommend using your card, BUT if you must, ONLY use it in an established business, NOT at a cart in a market. A friend of mine had the card number stolen. Once again, don't make yourself a victim.
  6. Don't use bags that are easily opened or have openings where little hands can get in. Make sure they zip up!
  7. Be aware of your surroundings. If you look the part of a dumb, clueless tourist, you will attract the pickpockets. A future post about being street savvy is soon to come!
Markets/Souvenirs
  1. Negotiate and bargain for everything! 
  2. Play hard to get and walk away. If they don't call after you, don't worry, you will find the same item somewhere else. 
  3. What is the country or city known for? Spices? Linens? Textiles? Technology? Silk? Woodwork?
  4. If you buy anything from a store, tax is included on the price tag. What you see is what you pay.
  5. Like I said before, use cash at markets, not cards.
  6. More details here
Miscellaneous
  1. To enter some religious attractions/centers you may need to be completely covered. So always have a sweater or jacket handy if wearing a sleeveless shirt or dress accordingly with covered arms and legs.
  2. Some hotels have economic lighting…if the lights turn off on you, don't fret, they will turn on in a moment.
  3. Toilets are always a fun item to tackle. Do you pull a chain? Do you pump the water with your foot? Do you pour a cup of water in the toilet to make it flush? Or do you aim for a hole in the ground (ewwww I know, but really…) Do you pay for the bathroom? Do you bring your own toilet paper? Oh the porcelain throne, how confusing it can be!
  4. Flushing: if there are two buttons, the left side one with one line normally means just liquid (pee),  the right side one with two lines means, well number 2 poo!
  5. Showers may be placed in strange places. Sometimes they are in the middle of the room, sometimes a stall, sometimes a random faucet next to the sink…Also, don't expect hot water. Fast showers are necessary (I'm still working on this).
  6. Australian sun is unforgiving…..it's so INTENSE!!!!!! Always bring sunscreen.


Do you have any tips that you learned the hard way that I didn't mention? Please leave a comment!

How to Travel with Food Allergies

Food allergies can quickly turn a fun trip into a trip filled with agonizing stomach cramps or worse, trips to the hospital. Many times, countries are known for their delectable cuisine, and how disappointing can it be to order food at a restaurant and it contains what you are allergic to. I am allergic to all dairy products (whey and casein) so I CANNOT eat any sort of milk product. I will not go into anaphalactic shock, but I will be sick to my stomach in bed, get hives on my legs, and I'll withhold the rest of the gruesome details!

If you have food allergies, doing research ahead of time about the cuisine of the country you intend to visit is a must (admit it, you already do that at home before going to a restaurant and before buying anything at the grocery store). Asian countries are pretty safe, since milk products are not an integral part of the cuisine. Western countries are another story, especially EU countries, the United States (need I include that?), and other western-influenced countries.  Once I have researched some staple dishes, I translate all of the allergens (for me: cheese, milk, dairy, cream) into the native language to stress to the waiter, "NO formaggio!" (means no cheese in Italian!). Trevor is very patient with my ridiculous ordering habits at restaurants because I repeat myself several times to make sure the waiter understands me. Every time I don't do this, a milk product somehow finds its way onto my plate (ugh!) and not all cultures are receptive to sending food back.

Just as the rule applies at home, when in doubt, do NOT eat it! On flights I have learned….just buy something at the airport or take easy to pack snacks. It was a long flight from Houston to Tokyo with very little food I could eat from the meals on the plane. Trevor enjoys eating my leftovers though, so nothing goes to waste! Trevor, all I want to say is, "Please Read Below!"

Wednesday, June 11, 2014

How to Pack for a 2 Week Trip in a BackPack

Many of my girlfriends' jaws drop when I tell them I only pack a backpack when I travel. Well, when you have had the experience of lugging around a giant 70 lb. bag for three weeks up and and down the stairs, in and out of trains, you learn your lesson. I took a three week guided tour through EF Tours with my high school history teacher and a group of about 20 kids when I was 18. Unfortunately, I had packed a GIANT bag full of clothes and shoes I did not use. I almost missed an overnight train from Paris to Lucerne, Switzerland because I was trying to shove the darn thing in the small doorway of the train car! Never again!

A friend suggested for me to take old underclothes/t-shirts/bedclothes to leave at the hotels to make room for souvenirs.  I continue to do this, however, I do not wear old t-shirts and shorts/skirts anymore. I feel it makes me stick out even more as a tourist, and this may make me a target to pickpockets.  Trevor and I both have Ebags backpacks that are large enough to pack everything you need, but they fit the necessary measurements for Carry-On luggage.  Check them out here! My packing staples include (these stay in my backpack for EVERY trip):


  • Medicine/First Aid Pouch (little zip pouch that has Pepto, Tylenol, Allergy Meds, Immodium, etc.)
  • Rain Jacket/Umbrella
  • Hygiene: Travel size brush (foldable), shampoo/conditioner, travel size toothbrush
  • Hiking Boots/ Light Weight Running Shoes
  • Reusable Water Bottle (EMPTY for plane ride)
  • Bathing Suit
  • Hand towel (for drying yourself while staying in hostels, full size bath towel is a waste of precious space!)
  • Puzzle Book/Mini Chess Set/Journal/Pen
  • Light Cardigan Sweater
  • Make-up essentials (sample size mascara, concealer, eyeliner, MAC 4 pack eyeshadow)
  • Drawstring Bag for Day Hikes or Souvenirs
For warm climates, I have invested in some light weight, printed dresses that do not look horrible wrinkled! I normally wear my hiking boots/lightweight running shoes paired with the dresses because of the amount of walking we normally do. The dresses make you look great in pictures, however, ask people not to include your feet in the picture unless they must! I take one pair of cute flip flops/sandals and ballet flats for nights out on the town. 



Climbing Up the Duomo in Florence, Italy. White Cotton Dress
Restaurant in Chiang Mai, Thailand. Tribal Printed Dress

For cool/cold climates, I bring a hip length pea coat and a North Face pull over sweater. I bring Dry-Fit Long Sleeved shirts to layer underneath. For bottoms, I pack one pair of jeans and Yoga Pants/Leggings. Remember, you can always take off layers, but you can't add them if you don't bring them!! It's all about the layers!!!


Sydney Harbor Ferry. North Face Fleece Pull Over.
Dry-Fit Long-sleeved Layer Piece.

You must accept the fact that you WILL be wearing some of the clothes several times, however, who cares if you are traveling to different cities! Find laundry services that will do the laundry/fold clothes within the day for you, so you don't waste a whole day sitting in a laundromat. To keep clothes fresh, pack a Ziploc Baggie of dryer sheets and layer them in between clothes as you wear them. Washing underclothes in the sink is also a wise idea if needed.

Now let's get into beauty. On a daily basis I do not wear make-up, however, on trips when lots of pictures are taken I will. I take the bare minimum because I need the room for clothing. I went to a MAC counter, told the artist my goal (need eyeshadow to travel that I can wear at night or during the day). The artist put together a palette of 4 colors (costly, BUT well worth it); two for the daytime and two to add on for nighttime. My priority is to experience the country I traveled so far to visit, so I try to keep my beauty regiment to 10 minutes or under. My hair is a mix of curly/wavy frizz, and I do not take a hair dryer or straightener. Yikes! What to do? Luckily, hair accessories and braids are back in style! Start pinning cute head bands and braided hair styles on Pinterest that don't take too long and can be done without a mirror (I have learned to french braid my own hair). Make sure to pack lots of bobby pins! 

There are several opinions about how to pack everything to save the most space, such as rolling each clothing item. I have found that folding the clothes once in half (for example, dresses at the waist) or laying the items flat works for me. I put all shoes in the first layer, which makes the backpack more sturdy against your back. Then the clothes go in. Pack your underwear towards the top edge of the bag (when you put it right side up, there will be space), just in case your travel time takes longer than expected. It helps to flip the bag right side up to make more space if needed, but be aware your clothes will get wrinkled if they shift. 

Also, leave room for souvenirs! You want to avoid looking like me in this picture! This happened once, and never happened again! It was so heavy!!

Yes, it is wider than I am….Big Mistake!

Do you have any tips for packing in a backpack? Leave a comment!

Rome

“Veni, vidi, vici” – Julius Caesar
This quote made famous by a Roman, does not depict Rome itself. I do not think you could spend ENOUGH days in this great city. I traveled to Rome in August 2010 with my now wife and brother. This was my second trip to Europe, my wife’s second time to Rome and my brother’s first time out of the country. There is way too much we saw to name all but our routes after each day indicate other attractions we saw. If you want the shorten version of must see, then try our 5 things you MUST see in Rome post. Here is our trip recap! Enjoy!

Manuel and us at a Pub Crawl

What? Two toilets next to each other?
This time around we decided to try Couch Surfing (www.couchsurfing.org) for some of our trip. I was skeptical at first and protective because it was not only me, but my brother and wife. I did some extensive research and thought I finally found someone trust worthy. I let him know our plans and he told me where to meet. Living in Houston, 20 miles or 30 km is still pretty close to the city, so when he said he was 20 km from Rome, I figured perfect. Once we got there, we realized it was a bit further from downtown than we anticipated. But it didn't matter… it was worth it. Where he lived was across
The view from Manuel's place!
Lago Albano from the Pope’s Summer Home Castel Gandolfo. His family owned a restaurant right around the corner and he gave us a taste and it was well worth it!











We spent most of the day going through Customs and getting to Manuel’s place. After a quick nap we headed back to the city to see one of the most iconic structures of the ancient Rome: The Colosseum.
The inside
Thanks and Gig 'Em!


From the outside
The Flavian Amphitheater is the center piece of most people’s “To See” list as it is one of the Seven Wonders of the World. And rightfully so. Emperor Vespasian started this masterpiece in 70 AD and it was completed 10 years later. Estimated to hold 50,000 – 80,000 spectators to view the gladiators. Remarkably, it could also be flooded and mock sea battles. Very impressive engineering. Even more impressive is majority of it is still standing today. My recommendation on getting inside to view is to buy the tickets ahead of time. I try to stay open to ideas but this is one thing we planned. I am not sure how this works today but back in 2010, the Roma Pass was a good purchase (http://www.romapass.it). It got us free public transport for 3 days, free entry to our first 2 visited museums/archaeological sites. Please note other than the Colosseum, most museums are CLOSED on Mondays.

Arc de Constantine is visible from the Colosseum
The After Pub Crawl at the Pool
The Colosseum is great to see but other than walking around there was not a whole lot else to see. The Arc de Constantine was near by, so we headed there. We met up with Manuel and headed to the Palatine Hill, which is one of the Seven Hills of Rome. It is believe this was the residence of the past emperors. Unfortunately, the entrance was closed so we headed to the Circus Maximus where the chariot races where. By now the sun was setting and we were getting hungry.  We grabbed a bite with some “fast food” pizza which is very cheap! We were done with the sightseeing and ready to party! We met at the Spanish Steps for the Pub Crawl (http://highlanderome.com). For €25 we got in with the 1st hour of open bar. We were the only Americans which much of the group being Irish, Aussie, and French. We had a good time bar hopping and mingling with our group and locals. Never be shy. We did somehow branch off and end up at some pool party that we ended up getting kicked out of because one of the Aussies lit a table on fire.

More or Less Day 1 Route



Day 2 started off earlier. We didn't want to be a nuisance to our host so we caught a bus into town. The Trevi Fountain was our first stop. A very extravagant fountain from the 1700’s.  
The Oculus of the Pantheon
It is most known for coin throwing where you throw a Euro with your right hand over your left shoulder. I believe it is supposed to bring you back to Rome some day but I am not sure. The Pantheon was something I was looking forward to. I studied Art History the semester before and this was one of our covered topics. The Pantheon was one of the largest domes for some time and regularly used since it was constructed in 126 AD. The renowned piece is the oculus of the dome. This is the opening to the sky. To get the dome the size it is, small pots and porous rocks were used to fill volume in the upper layers of the dome. This reduced the weight of the dome. In addition the chambers formed a
honeycomb structure that eliminated more weight. Afterwards we revisited the Palatine Hill. The ruins were very weathered and the hill was laid out with underground tunnels and a maze like system. We ended the evening walking the Villa Borghese. The gardens were nice and beautiful fountains. We told Manuel we were going to get a Hostel due to our planned long day at the Vatican. We ended up staying at Hostel Alessandro (http://www.hostelsalessandro.com). It was a decent place (lots of options for sleeping arrangements) that hosted a pub crawl… so we joined that! You always meet the best people at Pub Crawls, so don't be afraid!

Day 2: Our route wasn't as A to B as this but close enough!
Day 3
The Vatican is another reservation I would recommend. We set ours up for 8am because I say the less people to get in my way, the better Reserve your ticket here. I can sleep on the train later. Plus the queue was already long where we got there.
Inside St. Peter's Basilica
We enter the Museum and immediately in awe. The museum is full of painting galleries that cover many centuries, an Egyptian sector in the Cortile della Pigna (included statues, mummy heads, ancient artifacts, etc), Museo Pio Clementino (Roman artifacts) among others. Of course the centerpiece is the Sistine Chapel and the “Last Judgment” painting at that. The back breaking masterpiece by Michelangelo started in the early 1500’s is supposed to be off limits to photograph. My wife lives on the edge and attempted a photo. Then got a talkin to! We took a step outside in St. Peter’s Square to take a breather. It was amazing to see how many people come to this site! We re-grouped and headed to St. Peter’s Basilica, which is huge.
It is actually only 3 feet shorter in diameter than the Pantheon but much taller. This was one of the largest churches for some time. In the church is a statue of St. Peter that people rub the foot… I am not sure why, but we didn't break tradition. We finished up at the Vatican and headed towards the train station. We grabbed a bite to eat on the train and on our way to Florence. We tried one of the faster trains… more expensive but we arrived in no time!
Swiss Guards!











Highlights: 
The Colosseum
The Pantheon
Gelato and other food
Pub Crawl
The Vatican
Check out the overview of them here on our 5 MUST SEE Attractions

Would do differently:
Try not to cram so much into a day... This city has a lot to offer. 3 days was not enough!

For all you romantics... try this 1.5 mile walk at late evening (try to end at the Spanish Steps when it's dark, plenty of people there selling roses too).


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